Sustainable Sourcing of Diamonds Is More Important Than Ever

Sterling K. Brown at the Academy Awards and Jessie Buckley at the Actor Awards, both wearing sustainable jewels, surrounded by (clockwise from left) a jewel and brooch by Fred Leighton, a pendant necklace featuring a lab-created necklace and diamonds by Brilliant Earth, and the Jane Goodall Leaf Lab Diamond Ring, also by Brilliant Earth.

Getty Images (2); Courtesy of De Beers London (4)

It wasn’t so long ago that conversations about what “sustainable” meant in fine jewelry were murky at best, and downright convoluted and frustrating at worst. If you asked three different jewelry brands to define their sustainability policies, chances were you would get three different answers — none of them fully satisfying.

Using recycled gold, for example, might not always be sustainable, and while lab-grown diamonds tell a feel-good story by avoiding the human exploitation frequently associated with mining, what’s often not discussed is the energy consumption required to create those stones. Too often, claims of sustainability in jewelry have more to do with marketing than fact, and don’t hold up to scrutiny. There’s a word for such dubious claims of environmental virtue: greenwashing, coined in 1986 by American environmentalist Jay Westerveld to describe the deliberate misrepresentation of a practice’s true ecological cost.

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Fortunately, consumers have gotten wise over the past 40 years, and more curious about truly sustainable jewels. They’re increasingly unafraid to ask tough questions before making a substantial purchase. Indeed, the answers demanded by those consumers from diamond and jewelry houses have gone from “nice to have to need to have,” says Sally Morrison, the U.S. lead for natural diamonds (as opposed to lab-grown diamonds) for De Beers Group.

Rebecca Selva, chief creative officer at vintage jewelry house Fred Leighton, agrees. “I’ve been here for 33 years, and the questions by informed consumers aren’t only more numerous than ever, they’re also incredibly specific,” she says. “They want to engage in detailed conversations about old mine cuts or antique diamonds, but also where those stones came from at that time and whether that manufacturer was considered ethical during that period. I also get questions about whether we have pieces by certain designers, like [early and mid 20th century jewelers ] Georges Lenfant or André Vassort. I find it quite something that consumers are doing such extensive research in a quest for vintage jewels that aren’t only beautiful, they’re timeless and enjoying a new life with owners who love their backstories.”

Kate Hudson

Getty Images; Courtesy of De Beers London

Where are knowledgeable consumers also garnering inspiration? The red carpet, of course. Indeed, just as eco-conscious stars have been turning to vintage fashion to lower the carbon footprint of looking glamorous, many of today’s stars are turning to the past for their awards season jewelry. From Kirsten Dunst and Carey Mulligan at the Oscars to Kate Hudson at the Actor Awards, sustainable jewels dominated red carpet choices. Sterling K. Brown and Paul Tazewell likewise made sustainable choices of vintage Fred Leighton brooches that adorned their tuxes during recent awards events: Brown’s floral brooch at the March 15 Academy Awards was a 19th century design featuring old mine-cut diamonds, while Tazewell, the 2025 Oscar winner for best costume design for Wicked, made style headlines that night for his own sartorial splendor, which included a 1950s diamond and platinum brooch that featured more than 45 carats of round and baguette-cut diamonds. “Men and women alike reached out after [Tazewell] wore that brooch,” Selva says. “But as far as brooches in particular are concerned, it really has been the men who are driving that trend and interest in vintage.”

Carey Mulligan

Getty Images: Courtesy of De Beers London

In jewelry, new doesn’t always mean unsustainable. It’s common these days for diamond houses to position their sustainable policies front and center on their websites — but only after ensuring they are well-vetted and can withstand scrutiny. After all, stars wearing new pieces want to make sure their choice won’t ignite a backlash on social media. “It’s not enough to select something beautiful; you also must, must ensure it was created responsibly,” notes one Hollywood publicist. “Choose the wrong piece from the wrong company, and you could be called out on Instagram very quickly.”

Paul Tazewell

Getty Images; Courtesy of De Beers London

San Francisco-based Bril