How Costume Design Defines Power and Identity in Modern Dystopian TV

Modern television is increasingly using costume design as a primary narrative tool to illustrate the stark divides within dystopian worlds. In shows like Apple TV+’s 'Pluribus' and the series 'Paradise,' clothing serves as more than just aesthetic background; it acts as a visual shorthand for social hierarchy, individual rebellion, and the psychological state of characters living in post-collapse societies. By contrasting the curated, opulent wardrobes of the elite against the utilitarian, recycled garments of the masses, designers are effectively communicating the power dynamics inherent in these fictional futures.

In 'Pluribus,' costume designer Jennifer L. Bryan utilizes the flamboyant style of the Congolese Sapeurs to characterize Mr. Diabaté, a hedonistic survivor who uses fashion as a form of post-apocalyptic self-expression. His bespoke suits stand in sharp relief against the hive-minded, functional attire of the rest of the population, highlighting his detachment from the collective. Similarly, in 'Paradise,' the wardrobe choices underscore a rigid class structure. The wealthy elite, who arrived in their bunkers with trunks of luxury goods, maintain a sharp, tailored appearance, while the lower-tier inhabitants are forced to rely on scavenged, vintage clothing. This visual stratification reinforces the idea that even in the face of global catastrophe, material wealth and status remain the primary markers of privilege.

This trend highlights a shift in how prestige television approaches world-building. Rather than relying solely on set design or dialogue to explain societal collapse, creators are leveraging fashion to ground these high-concept scenarios in human reality. By focusing on how characters choose—or are forced—to dress, these shows offer a deeper commentary on how identity is maintained or discarded when societal structures fail. For viewers and industry observers, this underscores the growing importance of costume departments in shaping the thematic resonance and visual identity of contemporary genre storytelling.